Europe, Julian Alps, Slovenia - Triglav

This year the Sliven's Alpine club "Blue stones" have an anniversary - 50 years since it was establish. We are planning to climb Mt. Triglav & Mt. Grossglockner this summer to celebrate this remarkable anniversary. The first in the list is Mt. Triglav.
Triglav (2864 m) is the highest mountain in Slovenia and the Julian Alps. The origin of Triglav name is still not completely clear. People used to be believe that it is home of Gods. Triglav means three heads. Although mountain is compact, from south it shows 3 heads. On the left is Rjavec (2568m), in the middle is main summit, Triglav (2864m) and on the right is Mali Triglav (2725m), which is actually just a shoulder, not a real peak.

First on the summit where: Luka Korosec, Matija Kos, Stefan Rozic and Lovrenc Willomitzer. It happened on August 25th 1778. They climbed from Bohinj lake, over Velo Polje (where today is Vodnikov Dom hut), then to Ledine (where today is Planika hut) and further to Mali Triglav. Behind it, then notorious, ridge awaited them. They had to ride it because it is so narrow and on both sides is few hundred meters of sheer drop. Triglav was one of first important alpine peaks that were climbed. It was great feat for that time. First ascent from Krma valley happened in 1818.

Triglav's Via ferrata

Today Triglav is by far mostly climbed high peak in Slovenia and wider. Last 108 years, on the summit proudly stands Aljazev Stolp (more in objects section). Just below the summit is Stanicevo Zavetisce refuge, carved in stone. Four secured routes lead to Triglav. Some say that Triglav was humiliated with all that steel on the mountain. It became easy for anyone in better shape to climb Triglav, so today crowds can sometimes be unbearable and you have to wait on the ropes for long lines of people to pass as so many want to climb this magical mountain. Triglav regains respect in winter when security pegs and steel ropes are covered with snow. Then it is reserved only for experienced mountaineers and climbers. There are many huts around Triglav. In summer they are often overcrowded.

North face of Triglav is most impressive in Julian Alps and Slovenia. 1200m high and around 3km wide face belongs to the alpine elite. Its name is written into the foundations of European alpinism. In the face there are numerous couloirs, towers or pillars, which divide it into few sections. In the eastern part most noticeable are Slovenian and German Steber towers. Most powerful is Centralni Steber, as name says, in the central part, which is steepest. In the western section is wild and high Jugova Grapa couloir. Above it is best known part of the face, Sfinga, almost smooth overhanging section.

Triglav and routes on its Stena
First man to climb The Face was Berginc, a hunter from Trenta valley, in 1890. He climbed where today is Slovenska Smer, famous route suitable for experienced mountaineers that have some knowledge in climbing (up to III grade). First to climb central part were German climbers König, Reinl and Domenigg in 1906. Since then many routes were climbed in the face. The most famous route is Copov Steber, climbed in 1945 by Joza Cop and Pavla Jesih. The face is much climbed and represents to climbers what Triglav is to mountaineers.

Here are some routes:
Slovenska Smer route
Nemska Smer (German route)
Zimmer - Jahn exit (variation of German route): 800m, IV+
Bavarska Smer (Bavarian route): IV
Skalaska Smer route: IV-V
Copov Steber (Chop pillar) route: 1000m, VIII+
Prusik-Szalay and Kunaver-Drasler routes: 900m, VII+
Stopnice v Nebo (Stairs to the Sky): 500m, VI+
Zlatorogove Police (Zlatorog ledges)

More information about hiking routes could be found here.

Live cams in the area - Triglav weather; Triglav, Kredarica.

Used information, pictures and video from http://en.wikipedia.org/, http://www.summitpost.org/ and http://www.youtube.com/