Europe, Carinthia & East Tyrol, Austria - Grossglockner

The Grossglockner (German: Großglockner; Slovene: Veliki Klek) is Austria's highest mountain at 3 798 m above sea level. The Grossglockner lies on the border between Carinthia and the East Tyrol; it is the highest peak in the Glockner group, a group of mountains along the main ridge of the Hohe Tauern. The summit itself lies on the Glockner ridge, which branches to the south off the main ridge. The Pasterze, Austria's biggest glacier, lies at the Grossglockner's foot.
The Grossglockner is used for trained ice climbers. Some of the most difficult routes are at the north face, that can stand comparison to famous ascents at 4000 m-peaks in the Western Alps.
The Pallavicinirinne is the most classical of these routes. First climbed in 1877 when crampons were still unknown it has become famous because of the hard work of leading guide J. Tribusser who hit 2500 steps into the ice with his axe.


The Grossglockner

The major routes on the Grossglockner are
The easiest and most common route is from Erzherzog-Johann-hut: PD, glacier 35°, UIAA II. A good alternative with starting point Stuedlhuette is: south west ridge "Stuedlgrat", ridge climb, III -IV

Berglerrinne, culoir ice climb, 45-50°, III. First ascent of Berglerrinne to Oberer Nordwestgrat by E. Rainier 9.9.1929 (Ridge to the top climbed

Pallavicinirinne, couloir ice climb, 55-60°, III. First ascent by A.Pallavicini, J. Tribusser, G. Baeuerle & J. Kramser 18.8.1876.

North face. Welzenbach Route, mixed, IV+, 55°. First ascent by W.Welzenbach & K.Wein 19.9.1926.

Mayerlrampe (Glocknerhorn Nordwandrampe), ice climb, 60-70. First ascent by S.Mayerl, H.Lindner & H.Messner 19.10.1967.

Ice nose ("Theo-Riml-Gedenkanstieg"), ice climb, 90°. First ascent by K. Hoi, L. Baumgartner, G. Haefele, W. Haiden, W. Laserer & M. Rust, 29.8.1984.

Direct north face, 90°/mixed. First ascent by K.Hoi, L.Baumgartner, St.Lackner, A.Prugger & H.Christoph, 30.8.1985.

Live cams in the area - Heiligenblut, Zell am See

Used information, pictures and video from http://en.wikipedia.org/, http://www.summitpost.org/ and http://www.youtube.com/